Congratulations on your purchase of the LIMITED Rb20/25/26 to S14/15 mount kit!
The kit was designed to be a bolt in affair, if you have any issues, please reach out to me and I’ll help you out of the jam!
A few things to note before getting started:
- The starting point on the install assumes that the KA24De or the SR20De(t) is already removed from the chassis.
- The easiest way to install an RB will be to “drop the subframe,” in other words, slide the RB and transmission in from underneath NOT OVER the radiator support (going in over will make you frustrated as the engine and transmission are now extra long).
- Do not tighten any bolt completely until final alignment unless specified in the install guide.
- Assumes engine and transmission have been mated together
- Tools required:
- Torque Wrench
- 14mm socket
- 22mm socket and 22mm box wrench
- 12mm socket and a 12mm box wrench
Steps:
1. Affix the engine mount brackets to the RB engine block using the supplied new hardware in your Clark’s Auto box. The sides are labeled appropriately to make it easier for you (LH is left hand side of car if sitting in driver facing position). Please torque these to factory spec: 29-37 ft-lbs.
2. Loosely attach the Clark’s Auto engine mounts to the now attached brackets leveraging the supplied nuts. The sides are also labeled appropriately. The top stud is not centered, so please align the top stud so it's closer to the engine block. These will be torqued later.
3. Head to the tail housing on the RB25 transmission, and install the Nismo mount/ insulator with your original s-chassis hardware to the transmission. Please torque these bolts and nuts to factory spec now 31-41 ft-lbs.
4. Install the transmission crossmember to the now-attached Nismo insulator using your existing nuts. Please torque these nuts to factory spec now 16-21 ft-lbs.
5. Loosely attach the Clark’s Auto offset bracket to the transmission crossmember leveraging the one bolt and nut combo so that the other two empty holes are pointing to the front of the RB (see below photo).
6. Place the engine on the R33 crossmember so that it is now resting on the Clark’s Auto engine mounts. Note - tolerances are tight, they need to slide in at the same time, do not try to walk one side in then the other. Again, doing this outside of the vehicle will make it easier for you.
Your drivetrain should now resting on the crossmember (tip: moving dolleys or a lift table from Habor Freight make light work)
7. Tighten all 6 nuts on the Clark’s Auto mounts to 32-41 ft-lbs
8. Attach the crossmember to the chassis by lowering the chassis or lifting the engine into position. Factory torque spec on the OEM bracket U-bolts is 65-80 ft-lbs.
9. Head back to the transmission mount and finger thread the remaining bolts into the OEM holes on the chassis (if you previously tightened the trans mount nuts and bolts, loosen them to make sure all threads are catching). Once all threads have caught, torque all 4 bolts plus the 2 bolt/nut combos to 32-41 ft-lbs.
10. Recheck that all mounting bolts are torqued according to the above and torque the 22MM bolt and nut combo to 55-65 ft-lb.